DAY 8, December 4, 2014:
“Ruta del Sol” (Route of The Sun):
Some people select to wing from Cusco to Juliaca to live at Lake Titicaca. We chose to accept the omnibus ride Cusco-Puno, to relish the sights on the way. Juliaca is 28 miles from Puno in addition to both are on the famed Lake Titicaca (see the map farther downward inwards this post). We were quite happy how our conception turned out! This is the gorgeous lake Titicaca...
This is the map of the “Ruta del Sol” (Route of The Sun). Yes, the high height of all the places demand special scrutiny. We were good acclimatized, hence were able to relish the whole ride in addition to all the stops/sight seeing on the way:
Andahuaylillas Church,Huaro / Raqchi Inca Remains, Sicuani Lunch,La Raya Souvenirs, INC Pukara Museum.
Here nosotros are On the Inka limited starting from Cusco to Puno at 7am. Our hotel had dropped us at the omnibus halt at their expense.
Only 17 people inwards the 40 seater bus.
We took the front end seats on both sides...great views. Had a brusk comfort interruption here...
Andahuaylillas "Sistine Chapel of America":
Here's the Halt at Andahuayllialas— 3122 meters altitude.
This is Andahuaylillas "Sistine Chapel of America"
This is the church building of San Pedro Apostol de Andahuaylillas, built yesteryear the Jesuits inwards the 16th century. Like other Castilian in addition to religious constructions of the time, it was built on top of a huaca, or sacred identify for the Incas. Made out of adobe in addition to brick, the church building is a pocket-size construction consisting of i nave, apse in addition to bell tower. But there's a argue why it's known equally the Sistine Chapel of America. It has lovely murals...
Set off through the narrow lanes of the town.
This is Echinopsis pachanoi (syn. Trichocereus pachanoi) — known equally San Pedro cactus — is a fast-growing columnar cactus native to the Andes Mountains at 2,000–3,000 m.
Raqchi:
10:15 am : Plaza de Armas & Santa Isabel at Raqchi— 3450 meters altitude.
Located on the ancient Inca Road inwards a beautiful valley 11,500 feet to a higher identify body of body of water level, Raqchi remains dwelling to artisenias, farmers in addition to pocket-size ranchers.
Santa Isabel at Raqchi:
Archaeological complex, Raqchi:
This is the Archaeological complex of Raqchi
The most of import edifice within the complex is the "Wiracocha temple" that according to the one-time chroniclers was built yesteryear the Inca Wiracocha inwards accolade to the Superior God of the Andean people: "Apu Kon Titi Wiracocha". The "temple of Wiracocha" is a slap-up construction for that age. it is classified equally "Kallanka", that is, a high edifice completely covered amongst straw (wood in addition to "ichu"). Externally it is 92 meters long (302 feet) in addition to 25.25 meter broad (83 feet).
Raqchi "Temple of Wiracocha"The Incas built the temple in addition to surrounding quarters in addition to granaries inwards the 15th century, only to withdraw hold the Castilian conquistadors knock much of it downward around 1540 in addition to subsequently build their ain church building inwards its shadow.
Sicuani:
At 11:45 am, nosotros halted at Sicuani— 3552 meters altitude. The town is a major intersection, amongst the route to Puno/Arequipa passing through here. It is surrounded yesteryear some real pretty hills. Lunch was included inwards our omnibus ticket. This is La Pascana eatery where nosotros had our buffet lunch.
We did non withdraw hold high hopes equally I had read some reviews complaining nearly heavy crowds of many buses landing at the same time, in addition to the buffet running out. However, nosotros had a slap-up meal. There was a adept vegetarian selection, in i lawsuit again quite unexpected. We were the only customers equally it was non peak season. As said, fifty-fifty our omnibus had only 17 seats occupied out of 40!
Pasta was good; hence were the veggies.
Sicuani Buffet Lunch; This cream of quinoa soup was bland though. They charged for water; java is free, which nosotros don't take.
We left a adept tip.
Sicuani eatery facade...snakes, puma hither equally well.
Abra La Raya (La Raya Pass):
2:00 pm: At La Raya Pass — 4335 meters altitude.
Abra La Raya (La Raya Pass) is the watershed betwixt the valley that drains into Lake Titicaca in addition to the valley that leads downward to Cusco in addition to to the Sacred Valley.
The height is 4338 m (14,232 feet).
Apu is the holy spirit of mountain...
Inca mythology worked within 3 realms: Hanan Pacha (the upper realm), Kay Pacha (the human realm) in addition to Uku Pacha (the inner world, or underworld). Mountains — rising upwards from the human populace toward Hanan Pacha — offered the Incas a connectedness amongst their most powerful gods.
The apu mount spirits also served equally protectors, watching over their surrounding territories in addition to protecting nearby Inca inhabitants equally good equally their livestock in addition to crops. In times of trouble, the apus were appeased or called upon through offerings.
Small offerings such equally chicha (corn beer) in addition to coca leaves were common. In desperate times, the Incas would resort to human sacrifice. Juanita — the “Inca Ice Maiden” discovered atop Mount Ampato inwards 1995 (now on display inwards the Museo Santuarios Andinos inwards Arequipa) — may good withdraw hold been a sacrifice offered to the Ampato mount spirit betwixt 1450 in addition to 1480. [ We saw the mummy inwards Arequipa in addition to it was a soul stirring sight!!]
Pukara:
3:15 pm: Pukara Museum — 3900 meters altitude.
The Pukara manner is identified yesteryear impressive monolithic sculptures amongst a diverseness of geometric, zoomorphic, in addition to anthropomorphic images addition intricate, multi-colored pottery inwards a diverseness of ritual in addition to domestic forms.
Pukara was the get-go regional population centre inwards the northern Lake Titicaca Basin during the Late Formative Period (500 BC- AD 200), providing valuable insights into the origins of Andean civilization inwards the highlands. During its peak it covered over a foursquare kilometer in addition to housed thousands of bureaucrats, priests, artisans, farmers, herders, in addition to perhaps warriors.
The omnibus drove on through a drizzle...
We reached our goal Puno omnibus stop, bargained amongst an autorickshaw for a ride to our hotel. On the way, nosotros stopped at the Supermercado; boy ran inwards to purchase a vii liter H2O bottle for our rest spell I sat amongst our bags inwards the hired vehicle.
Sonesta Posadas, Puno:
Here nosotros are At Sonesta Posadas on lake shore, Puno. Checking in...
Our room had a lovely lake view...we close off the heater in addition to kept our room window opened upwards thru out...
We bought this vii liter H2O bottle from Plaza Vea on our agency from the omnibus stop. The hotel charges heavily for drinking water!!
Had some food, watched the Sun laid over the awesome lake correct from our room at around 10 pm in addition to slept off.
Day 9, December 5, 2014: ISLA SUASI, LAKE TITICACA:
At v am nosotros watched the Sun ascension from hotel room. So worth it to instruct upwards early!
Had our breakfast.
We had booked a nighttime at the isle Isla Suasi which is a individual isle inwards Lake Titicaca.
LAGO TITICACA:
Lake Titicaca is located inwards the Andes between Republic of Bolivia in addition to Peru. It is the largest freshwater lake inwards South America (8400sq km), in addition to is also regarded equally the highest navigable lake inwards the populace at 3810m, 12500ft.
Lake Titicaca is said to live the cradle of Peru’s ancient civilizations, in addition to has been populated yesteryear numerous Andean cultures, including the Purakas, the Tiwanakus, in addition to the Incas. The presence of these civilizations, peculiarly the Incas, tin displace live seen on Lake Titicaca yesteryear the ruins they left behind inwards the isle of the Sun in addition to the isle of the moon, in addition to also a mysterious underwater temple thought to live betwixt 1,000 in addition to 1,500 years old.
See this map for Puno, Juliaca, Uros, Taquile in addition to Suasi island....
When nosotros knew nosotros tin displace withdraw hold an isle rest inwards such a special place, nosotros jumped at the chance! We booked 3 nights at Lake Titicaca, the 1st in addition to 3rd at the lake shore inwards Sonesta Posada in addition to the 2nd nighttime inwards the island. This all sounds hence complicated, but this was how I could instruct by logistics. The island beingness hence remote, it equally ameliorate to schedule it inwards the middle hence that nosotros were non also harried to accept their transportation.
We left our large bags at Sonesta equally nosotros were coming dorsum in that location in addition to took only an overnight handbag to the island.
As role of the room charges, we paid upwards for the boat ride to in addition to fro. They were pretty prompt amongst emails in addition to everything was arranged. It's a 4 lx minutes ride to the isle inwards the boat, but on the agency inwards they included 2 stops making the journeying half dozen hours.
We were picked upwards at our hotel in addition to taken to Casa Andina hotel a piffling farther down. They withdraw hold their ain pier in addition to a boat was to accept us to their franchise hotel at Isla Suasi.
Here nosotros are At Casa Andina reception, waiting for our boat ride to Isla Suasi.
The isle is owned yesteryear a senior lady Martha in addition to she lives in that location inwards her cottage amongst her dog. The isle is solar powered... no ability from 9pm to 6am.
At the fourth dimension of our visit, the accommodation was managed yesteryear Casa Andina. But the lady chose non to renew their lease in addition to nosotros were in all likelihood the final guests nether the one-time plan. The possessor was opting to run the present on her ain later! Awesome personality living lone on a remote isle inwards the middle of a huge lake (3840sq km area) at 12500 ft altitude.
There is a adventure the isle gets cutting off when the lake is also turbulent. Mostly happens inwards heavy pelting in addition to nosotros were OK!! Instead of the iv lx minutes boat ride from Puno, people tin displace come upwards inwards 1 lx minutes fourth dimension from Juliaca. Anyway nosotros were real happy how our selection played out for a rest on a exclusive island.
We were hence lucky we were the only guests on that 24-hour interval in addition to had the whole isle in addition to their guided hikes, in addition to boat rides to ourselves.
When nosotros landed, 2 couples were leaving yesteryear the same boat. When nosotros left the side yesteryear side day, nosotros counted 17 people checking in... non i grouping but it had hence happened that many people had opted to come upwards inwards that day. Our guide had a huge express mirth over our luck!!
Lovely ride, amongst us beingness the only guests on the boat.
In Andean belief, Titicaca is the birthplace of the sun. The shimmering deep bluish Lake Titicaca is an awesome sight. Even inwards summertime when nosotros visited it's pretty cool despite sunny conditions in addition to bluish skies; inwards nighttime it's pretty cold!! gauge it's the height in addition to the lake around.
In this area, crops are yet planted in addition to harvested yesteryear hand. Campesinos (peasants) article of apparel sandals recycled from truck tires, women operate inwards petticoats in addition to bowler hats, in addition to llamas are tame equally pets. It mightiness appear austere, but seems a uncomplicated in addition to satisfying life. Such an one-time populace charm!!
Our 1st halt was at Uros island.
Uros island:
The Uros are a pre-Incan people who alive on forty-two self-fashioned floating islands inwards Lake Titicaca Puno, Republic of Peru in addition to Bolivia.
These islets are made of totora reeds, which grow inwards the lake. The dense roots that the plants prepare in addition to interweave cast a natural layer called Khili (about i to 2 meters thick) that back upwards the islands. They are anchored amongst ropes attached to sticks driven into the bottom of the lake.
The reeds at the bottoms of the islands rot away fairly quickly, hence novel reeds are added to the top constantly, nearly every 3 months; This is peculiarly of import inwards the rainy flavor when the reeds rot much faster. The islands final nearly 30 years. They demonstrated the reed weaving technique.
Then it was a verbalize nearly their food.
Mainly fish ispi, carachi in addition to catfish. Trout was introduced to the lake from Canada inwards 1940, in addition to kingfish was introduced from Argentina. Uros also hunt birds such equally seagulls, ducks in addition to flamingos, in addition to graze their cattle on the islets.
Here's a weaving specimen.
Many of the subjects refer to religious ideas in addition to symbols in addition to to social status. motifs such equally snakes, birds, marine creatures, in addition to felines, Images of composite creatures in addition to human/animal combinations are also represented. They display a diverseness of weaving techniques known inwards Peru, peculiarly evidently weave, slit tapestry, in addition to embroidery.
The role of the isle settlements was originally defensive, in addition to if a threat arose they could live moved. This is a watchtower almost alone constructed of reeds.
We refused to instruct inwards their homes equally nosotros felt awkward to peep into individual lives! I had specifically told the guide nosotros experience uncomfortable in addition to since nosotros were the only guests they tin displace become easy. Also told him nosotros volition non live shopping. I intend he would withdraw hold communicated these to them hence nosotros were non faced amongst sales pitches.
They offered a ride on their special boat... nosotros politely declined.
We tipped the guy who did the demo in addition to had a dainty chat amongst him. Funnily enough, he was bespeak us personal questions, he had false me for my son's sis in addition to he told my boy equally nosotros were leaving, your mom is real beautiful!! So I gauge people watching is from both sides!! No demand to experience awkward visiting their homes!
[When I was researching I felt that this isle is at in i lawsuit only for gullible tourists. I felt these people must only come upwards inwards yesteryear boat inwards the morning, topographic point on a present in addition to exit for their regular homes when tourists become away. No agency this was their permanent regular home! I mentioned this to our guide in addition to he laughed his caput off... in that location was no denial! It's real scenic in addition to the concept is awesome, it must withdraw hold existed inwards the past, hence definitely worth a visit, authentic or not]
The boat rode on in addition to nosotros reached a large island.
Taquile island:
Taquile is an isle inwards Lake Titicaca, on the Peruvian side, inwards the Andean altiplano (high plateau) at nearly 13,000 feet (3,815 meters), to a higher identify body of body of water level.
This community’s indigenous, Quechua speaking inhabitants are renowned worldwide for their dramatically colored finely handwoven textiles.
This is a broad blood-red belt ( chumpi )... the calendar waistband, depicting the annual cycles connected to ritual in addition to agricultural activities.
The calendar waistband depicts elements of the oral tradition of the community in addition to its history. The belt is Taquile’s best-known item of dress. Female Taquileans weave belts, which are worn yesteryear men, women, in addition to children.
Women in addition to men usually run upwards the woven belt to a stiff, warp-wrapped underbelt (tayka wak’a), which keeps the belt fl at in addition to supports the back. Belts are usually worn amongst the black side of the primal band (upper right) facing outward.
Here's a demo...preparing shampoo from a local constitute called chukjo. (used equally detergent, shampoo in addition to soap).
Our guide told us interesting details nearly the community.
Unmarried men wore a finely-knit cap ( ch’ullu soltero ) amongst a colored base of operations in addition to white top, without ear flaps.... seen inwards distant background...
Married men, peculiarly those who had completed community service, wore a blood-red in addition to navy blue striped knit cap ( pintay ch’ullu ), filled amongst pattern motifs along its length
Red denotes responsibleness spell white shows that they tin displace live carefree. Once a couplet create upwards one's heed to marry, they withdraw hold to alive together for 1 twelvemonth earlier getting married in addition to the human being has to article of apparel the pom pom of his chapeau on the contrary side of his head. If it doesn’t operate out the couplet role equally friends, if they create upwards one's heed to marry, the celebration lasts for vii days. The whole community attends but they withdraw everything that is required for the celebrations.
They instruct by the community through community collectivism in addition to on the Inca moral code ama sua, ama llulla, ama qhilla, (Quechua for “do non steal, produce non lie, produce non live lazy”).
Again it was real pleasant sitting inwards these lovely environment listening to these details of their life!
ISLA SUASI:
We landed at Isla Suasi yesteryear 11/30... nosotros had cutting brusk shopping fourth dimension at the UROS, TAQUILE islands, also their amusement music/dance.
Waiting inwards the golf game cart for a ride to our hotel, our boat inwards the background. Albert picking upwards a gas cylinder which had come upwards inwards the boat.
It's slap-up nosotros are the only visitors on that day. Hotel sign board here.
Golf cart broke downward here... nosotros had a brusk walk. [The side yesteryear side 24-hour interval when nosotros leaving nosotros only had to walk dorsum downhill equally the golf game cart was out of service. The 17 visitors who were coming inwards were huffing in addition to puffing upwards hill, looking tired!!]
Checking inwards at Casa Andina Isla Suasi.
They withdraw hold 2 gratuitous activities... a sunset hike amongst guide to the top of the loma inwards the isle in addition to forenoon guided see to the museum amongst Martha's collection of local crafts.
Both were good.
Sun laid at Isla Suasi; total Moon starting to peek over the hills. The guided hike was great!
PACHAMAMA mound behind... visitors add together rocks to seek blessings of Mother Earth.
DAY 10, December 6, 2014,
5am: Watched Lord's Day ascension at Isla Suasi.
Wild Vicunas on the horizon during Sun rise...
Then roamed around enjoying the beauty.
We had our breakfast,
then nosotros had the guided see to the museum.
Albert was our guide for both activities in addition to nosotros tipped him.
We took the boat dorsum to Casa Andina pier at Puno at noon. We were given a tiffin box on the boat, but it was ham sandwiches in addition to nosotros returned it equally nosotros are vegetarians.
When nosotros landed in addition to waited for our drib off at Sonesta, a daughter appeared amongst 2 boxes amongst vegetarian sandwiches, french fries in addition to cookie in addition to apologized for giving us non vegetarian snacks on the ride! Pretty surprised in addition to pleased. The ride had costed usd ninety per individual for the to in addition to fro trip, but it included the isle visits in addition to guide also... hence all inwards all good!
We arrived yesteryear 4.30 pm to Sonesta, checked inwards again, collected our bags. Enjoyed the surroundings
Resident alpacas...
. We had booked 4M Express omnibus from Puno to Chivay over e-mail in addition to they had told us they'll confirm pickup fourth dimension over telephone to our hotel nosotros told our hotel to tak the message which would come upwards inwards yesteryear 6pm in addition to inform us. They did so, nosotros were asked to live prepare at 6am for hotel pickup. This was slap-up because usually inwards peak flavor pickup is only from centro. We watched the sunset inwards lovely environment in addition to went to sleep.
Colca canyon study is here:
http://www.kris-sapiutri.blogspot.com/search?q=peru-trip-report-day-10-puno-chivay
Colca canyon study is here:
http://www.kris-sapiutri.blogspot.com/search?q=peru-trip-report-day-10-puno-chivay
Peru Trip Report, 24-Hour Interval 8: Cusco-Puno Ruta Del Sol; 24-Hour Interval 9:Isla Suasi, Lago Titicaca
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